Pets World

Don't Let Your Rabbit Loose it's Cool

2009-06-19T18:12:00.003+07:00

Some people think domesticated rabbits can tolerate heat since wild rabbits do okay in hot climates. Wild rabbits are acclimated to the weather and the heat. Domesticated rabbits are descendants of the European Rabbit and would normally live in a warren that would be cool underground in hot weather. Your rabbit doesn't have a warren to stay cool.

How to Help Your Rabbit Keep its Cool:

Made for Shade: Keep your rabbit out of the sun and have a cage in the shade. Indoor rabbits with direct sun into their cage or pen in the summer need to be protected, too. Heat passing through a window doesn't escape back out so the room heats up. If you let your rabbit run in the garden in the summer, have a shady place for it to rest.

Fans: A fan that will pass a breeze by the rabbit is great and particularly a circulating fan so the breeze isn’t constant. Groucho spends his summer by his own personal fan. Don't put the rabbit's cage in front of an air conditioner and so they really "chill out!" Be sure to bunny proof the cords!

Less Fur: On long-haired rabbits – give them a "hare" cut for the summer. Also, brush hair out of a bunny’s coat so there isn’t extra. After all, that is a fur coat your rabbit is wearing in the summer.

Vegging Out: Vegetables help keep rabbits hydrated so make sure they are getting plenty. Wash the vegetables and leave some of the water on them.

Cool Spots: Ceramic tiles, marble tiles or brick/cement pavers in the cage or in a favorite spot are cool areas for lounging rabbits.

Water: Put a couple of ice cubes in their water crock – this will keep their water cool and the ceramic crock will be nice for them to lounge next to when it gets too warm. Rosemary gets them out and licks them.

Mist Ears: Rabbits dissipate heat through their ears so you can mist them to help them keep cool. Don’t make them wet – just mist occasionally. Plant misters work well. A spray bottle full of water will scare a rabbit.

Cool Buddy: Freeze a few 1 liter pop bottles full of water and then put a thin sock over the bottle and put it in the rabbit’s area or cage. Rabbits will lay next to the bottle to cool off. I keep one or two in the freezer all summer and rotate in the rabbit pen. Rosemary and Groucho share theirs by laying down with their bottle "ice cube" between them.

Heat Stroke: If your rabbit gets heat stroke, mist his ears. Absolutely no cold baths or showers! Call your vet!

In the Car: Just like a dog or cat - never leave a rabbit in the car in the sun or hot weather! (hopper)

Diet

2009-06-19T18:00:00.002+07:00

The most important element in your rabbit's diet is hay. Hay provides the fiber needed to keep the digestive tract working properly. Timothy hay (or another grass hay) is recommended over alfalfa since it is lower in calcium, protein and fat. Unlimited amounts of fresh hay should be provided on a daily basis. Because rabbits' digestive systems are designed to derive nourishment from foraging on low-nutrient food, they can actually be damaged by foods too high in protein, fat and calories.

Fresh leafy greens should be offered daily. We recommend at least three different ones from the following list: kale, dandelion, collard greens, red leaf lettuce, green leaf lettuce, romaine, escarole, chicory, dill, cilantro, parley, swiss chard, oregano and mustard greens. Carrots should be limited to about 1/2 per day depending on the size of your rabbit as they are high in sugar and calories, but the leafy tops can be fed freely. Typically they should receive 2 cups of greens per 5 pounds of body weight.

Pellets are the leading cause of obesity in rabbits and should be fed in moderation to help provide a well rounded diet. Some veterinarians recommend a hay and vegetable diet only, especially if your rabbit is overweight. Adult rabbits should not be fed more than 1/4 cup per 5 pounds of your rabbit's weight. When choosing a pellet, buy only freshly milled plain green varieties and avoid the ones that have treat foods in them. Flip over the back of the package. Ideally you are looking for brands that contain less than 2% fat, less than 14% protein and at least 20% fiber. High fiber or timothy-based varieties are strongly recommended.

Fresh water should always be available. Make sure that you not only replace the water daily, but that you clean the bottle or crock.

Rabbits should not be fed any human treats including cheerios, bread, chocolate, crackers, etc. Good treats include about a half inch of banana, a thin slice of apple or a couple of raisins. Other fruits may be offered in tiny quantities. All processed treats available in pet stores should be avoided, even if they appear "natural". The extra fat and calories can compromise your rabbit's digestive system and internal organs.(rabbit)

Watch Out for Mr. Fox

2009-06-19T17:41:00.004+07:00

It was such a beautiful sunny morning today that I took my rabbits Cara and Sebastian outside in the garden to play; a very good time was being had by all. I looked up and guess what was walking along the garden wall: a fox! I happened to be taking photo's at the time, so got a picture - this is the exact moment he noticed the rabbits! Cara went running over to say hello as Marianne and I dived for the wall to chase it away. It’s just as well that I never leave the bunnies unattended as they weren't the least bit bothered and would have happily run over expecting him to join in the fun.

Cara and Sebastian were very lucky rabbits. Their owner agreed to share their story in the hope it would help other rabbit owners realise the foxes pose in time to save their bunnies lives. Many rabbits are not as lucky. Other rabbit owners have shared stories of hutches being broken into, rabbits taken from a first floor balcony and even a house rabbit killed after a fox entered through the back door.

Many of these attacks happen in urban areas and during daylight hours. Urban foxes are used to people and are not put off by owners being nearby.

When you are rabbit proofing your bunnies housing you should consider security from the point of view of something trying to get in as well as preventing your rabbit escaping. A fox can easily clear a six foot garden fence or wall. They are also excellent diggers and will tunnel into a rabbit run or under a fence to enter a garden. They have powerful jaws and will gnaw through chicken wire and plywood hutches in order to get at 'dinner'.

Making Out Door Accommodation More Secure

Here are some changes you can make to help security:

A secure run is the best way of giving an outdoor rabbit exercise. It should have both a lid and, if on grass, something to stop a fox digging in or a rabbit digging out. Use weld mesh instead of chicken wire. This is stronger as it is welded at each join rather than being twisted together. Replace wooden catches on hutches with secure metal bolts. Wooden twist catches will easily open when a fox scratches at them. Ensure that mesh is firmly attached to the frame. Many mass produced hutches/runs are put together with staples that don’t go very deep into the wood. You can reinforce these with U-Shaped nails. Most DIY stores stock them, just ask. Check for small gaps that a fox can chew at and enlarge.

If you are aware of foxes in the area you could also:

Fit wooden shutters to the hutch and close them at night (remember to leave ventilation holes). Move the hutch into a shed or unused garage. Turn your rabbit into a house rabbit.

Most importantly: never leave your rabbit loose in the garden unattended.(Rabbit)

Games Rabbits Play

2009-06-19T17:21:00.001+07:00

In the years I have had rabbits (usually only one at a time), I have found a lot of enjoyment from their playing games with me and with each other. These games are often recognizable as games we played when we were children.

One game I found myself playing with my first rabbit was "hide and seek." She would go hide under a bush or something, but as soon as we made eye contact, she would come out. After I did this one time, I went back into the house into the bathroom. Soon the rabbit, who did not usually go into the bathroom, came looking for me. I realized that it had been my "turn" to hide, and she had "found" me.

Another time she led me on a chase up hills and through bushes, and when I was about worn out I spied a flash from the corner of my eye. When I staggered back into the house, she was sitting smugly waiting for my return.

My next group of rabbits played follow-the-leader. One day I found Virginia, followed by the other bunnies, all in single file, going up and down the furniture and in and out of the lower kitchen cabinets.

The rabbit I have now is more aggressive than the others I have had. His game is "bull and bullfighter." He charges at me with a growl and bumps me. I clap my hands and he wheels and goes back to make another charge.

In each of these cases, there was no training in- volved--the games were their idea. But it has made my rabbits really fun to be around.

John B. Miller (rabbit)

Fish Anatomy

2009-06-19T16:51:00.003+07:00

Typical Tropical Fish Anatomy

Aquarium plants

2009-06-19T16:32:00.005+07:00

Nano nurturing

George Farmer's step-by-step guide explains why and how he set up this little tank and discovered the virtues of non-CO2 injection...

The nano aquarium hobby is showing no sign of decline and, considering the wider selection of specialist gear now available, it made sense to set up, 'just one more tank'.

In my role as an aquatic plant writer and aquascaper, I get to try out new and exciting products and plants and a few months ago I was sent some pots of a new plant, known as Staurogyne sp. and was asked by Tropica if I would grow them and report back with my results. So what better excuse did I need to set up another tank?

The aquarium

I chose a Clearseal 30 x 20 x 20cm/12 x 8 x 8”, with a maximum capacity of 12 l/3 gal. I worked with this size of aquarium last year, as some regular readers or PFK website users may remember.

These are well-built and reasonably priced, making them ideal nano aquariums for those willing to customise with such items as separately purchased lighting and filtration.

Filtration and lighting

I wanted to avoid an internal filter due to the size of the tank in its impact on aquascaping, so decided on the Eden 501 external canister. Its maximum flow rate of 300 lph is plenty for this set-up.

The filter is supplied with all the necessary media and plumbing but I decided to use some nano glassware to improve the overall aesthetics.

Lighting is by an Aquadistri 18W power compact T5 with integral tank-clamp kit. Supplied with a
full-spectrum daylight bulb and at over 1W per litre, this is an ideal light source for planted nano aquaria. I set the photoperiod for eight hours, which is plenty for planted aquariums with medium to high lighting levels. I always use a plug-in-timer to make life easier.

No heating was used as my living room is warm enough for the plants and animal species kept.

(read more here..)

New wrasse named after ichthyologist

2009-06-19T16:08:00.001+07:00

Ichthyologists have described a new species of wrasse from the Western South Atlantic in a recent issue of the journal Zootaxa.

Osmar Luiz, Jr, Carlos Ferreira and Luiz Rocha name the new wrasse Halichoeres sazimai after Brazilian ichthyologist Ivan Sazima.

This new species, from the southern and southeastern coasts of Brazil, can be distinguished from congeners in having a white body with a midline, zigzag patterned stripe on body, black and brownish in terminal males and yellow or golden in females and juveniles.

An analysis of a mitochondrial cytochrome b gene fragment reveals that it is most closely related to H. bathyphilus.

According to the authors “[t]his species was regularly observed foraging solitary on sand bottoms immediately adjacent to the lower end of rocky reefs.

“Harems composed of a few (five to ten) individuals are not common but occasionally seen. Sometimes the fish venture over the reefs, but generally never shallower than 20 m depth depending on water temperature (they seem to be associated with temperatures lower than 18°C).

“As observed in other labrids, Halichoeres sazimai forages mostly on mobile invertebrates on soft and hard substratum, being more commonly observed foraging on sand bottoms.”

For more information, see the paper: OJ, Jr, Luiz, CEL Ferreira and LA Rocha (2009) Halichoeres sazimai, a new species of wrasse (Perciformes: Labridae) from the Western South Atlantic. Zootaxa 2092, pp. 37–46.(practical)

Leopard Ctenopoma

2009-06-19T15:21:00.003+07:00

Some read:
Written by: Fruitbat

Scientific Name: Ctenopoma acutirostre Pellegrin, 1899; Family - Anabantidae; Order - Perciformes
Synonyms: Anabas acutirostris (not valid), Ctenopoma denticulatum (not valid), Ctenopoma petherici (not valid)
Etymology: Ctenopoma from Greek 'ktenos' = comb (from the comb-like spines on the gill cover); acutirostre from Latin meaning 'long nose'.
Common Names: Leopard Ctenopoma, Spotted Ctenopoma, Spotted Climbing Perch, Leopard Bushfish
Region: Congo River basin in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Africa
Maximum Size: 15cm (5.9 inches). Usually smaller in the aquarium.
pH and Hardness: tolerates a wide range of water conditions. Typically from pH 6.0 - 8.0 and dH from 5.0 - 12.0
Temperature Range: decidedly tropical; temperature range between 75 - 82 degrees F.

Introduction

Labyrinth fish from Asia are very familiar to most aquarists. Gouramis like Trichogaster and Colisa grace thousands of tanks. The Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta splendens) is a world-wide favorite. Even the Paradise Fish (Macropodus opercularis) has a loyal following. Far less commonly kept are the African genera of anabantoids. These include the so-called 'bushfish' of the genera Ctenopoma, Microctenopoma and Sandelia.

One characteristic common to all labyrinth fish is the presence of a specialized respiratory structure called the 'labyrinth' organ. This is an auxiliary breathing apparatus that allows labyrinth fish to utilize atmospheric air when the dissolved oxygen content of the surrounding water gets too low. Labyrinth fish utilize this organ to greater or lesser degrees, depending on the type of fish. Regardless of type, most labyrinth fish can occasionally be seen at the surface gulping air even if the dissolved oxygen content of the water is high. Labyrinth fish are often the last fish to die in ponds that dry out during periods of drought.

Habitat and Niche

Ctenopoma acutirostre is found in the rivers, streams, lakes and swamps of the Congo River basin. It may live in areas of fairly rapid water movement but seems to prefer places with less current. This fish is primarily an ambush hunter. It will lie in wait, often at the edge of thick vegetation, for an unsuspecting smaller fish to blunder into range. The Leopard Ctenopoma will also actively hunt at night. Food items include smaller fish, amphibians and insects.

Appearance

The Leopard Ctenopoma has a rounded, laterally compressed body with large protruding eyes and a long, pointed snout. Unlike its gourami relatives, C. acutirostre has a large mouth as befitting its carnivorous nature. The spines of the dorsal fin are prominent.

The base coloration ranges from reddish-brown to golden yellow with many irregular spots and blotches of dark brown or black. The ventral color is light yellow to white. All fins except the pectoral fins and the tips of the dorsal, caudal and anal fins are colored. In this the Leopard Ctenopoma resembles the Leaf Fish of the Family Polycentridae. One of the darker spots at the base of the tail often forms an 'eye spot'. The pattern tends to fade in older individuals.

Breeding the Leopard Ctenopoma

To the undoubted joy of smaller aquarium fish, reports of captive breeding of Ctenopoma acutirostre are relatively rare. They are egg-scatterers and provide no parental care to the young.

Sexes are practically impossible to distinguish on the basis of body shape or coloration. Males have well-developed spines behind the eye and at the caudal base. These are less well-developed in females. Examination of these spines requires the use of a good magnifying glass.

Personal Experiences with Ctenopoma acutirostre

I first encountered this fascinating fish in the 1970s and have rarely seen it for sale since then. Only recently was I fortunate enough to find a tankful of small C. acutirostre for sale at a local fish store. I immediately purchased three of them.

Ctenopoma acutirostre is a relatively shy fish, only exhibiting aggression to others of its own kind. This usually takes the form of body wagging displays and occasionally head butts.

This fish prefers a heavily-planted aquarium and does not much appreciate robust or overly aggressive tank-mates. It is decidedly predatory in nature and smaller fish are not safe in a tank with the Leopard Ctenopoma. As previously mentioned, the mouth is quite large on this fish and it is capable of swallowing a fish up to 1/3 its own size. As long as its tank-mates are too large to be considered food, the Leopard Ctenopoma makes a fairly good community fish. I do not recommend that it be kept with overly aggressive types of cichlids, as it will not defend itself vigorously.

Tank size should be a minimum of 20 gallons for adult fish, though juveniles do very well in smaller aquariums. Plenty of hiding places should be provided.

Feeding the Leopard Ctenopoma is usually not difficult as they will take almost any kind of meaty food. I have had success with frozen bloodworms, appropriately-sized pieces of shrimp (fresh, frozen or freeze-dried), brine shrimp (live and frozen), pieces of earthworm, and the occasional small feeder fish. Flake food is generally ignored completely.

Care should be taken with these fish as they can and will jump out of the aquarium. Openings should be secured as much as is possible.

One interesting behavior that C. acutirostre shares with various Leaf Fish is that it seems to enjoy a good yawn every so often. It is then that the aquarist gains a full appreciation of the size of the mouth.

Summary

Ctenopoma acutirostre, the Leopard Ctenopoma, is an uncommonly encountered 'oddball' that makes an excellent community fish as long as its tank-mates are too large to be swallowed. It is an efficient hunter of smaller fish and exhibits very interesting behavior. I recommend it highly.(monster)

OOPS!!! Not Fish. Just Dinosaur Eggs.

2009-06-19T15:06:00.002+07:00

I thought I was removing another box containing fossil fish (to add to the thread). Instead I found several of my dinosaur egg specimens. I figured someone might like to see them. So, here you go:

This first piece is an egg shard from a Titanosauridae. It's from the Cretaceous period of Argentina. The second piece is a free-form polished cabochon, I ground from the same material, to display the pores the dinosaur embryo used for respiration. (monster)

fitness

2009-06-19T11:15:00.001+07:00

Fitness isn't just about exercise. A good diet, mental stimulation, socialization, and being part of family life are all just as important for keeping your dog in good physical and mental health.

The right diet

Quality food and clean water are essential to a long, healthy life. As soon as your dog arrives at your house, whether he's a puppy or an adult, feed him the best-quality food you can afford. You're likely to have a fitter dog with a shinier coat, as well as fewer vet bills.

Enough exercise

A leashed walk around the block lets your dog do his business and check his pee-mail, but it isn't enough for most dogs. Most dogs need 30 to 60 minutes a day of exercise to stay in good shape. Some pups need those minutes to be off-leash, full-out running to burn off steam; some enjoy a good long walk; and some want to go play fetch in a lake. Whatever form of exercise your dog loves the most, he'll be healthier for indulging in it.

Mental stimulation

A dog's mind needs exercise as much as his body does--the same "use it or lose it" philosophy applies to us all. Training is a mainstay of canine brain workouts. It could be as simple as learning to sit and stay and do doggie calisthenics, or as complex as training for agility or obedience competitions.

Of course, all work and no play makes Fido a dull boy, so after the serious training, toss in some playtime. Playing is another brain teaser, and dogs of all ages love it.

Interactive toys, which let your dog get pieces of food out of the canine equivalent of the Rubik's Cube, stimulate the brain. An added benefit: they're great ways to keep your dog's mind on something other than chewing, barking, and other annoying pastimes while you're at work.

Socialization

A dog who's isolated from strange people, dogs, or situations, is likely to react with fear or aggression, or a mixture of both, when confronted with anything outside his routine. A dog who's well socialized--exposed to new dogs, people, and situations--is more likely to stay confident, relaxed, and friendly, no matter what life throws at him. And that's the state you want your dog to be in when your neighbor's toddler runs up to your pup and throws her arms around his neck.

Socialization is especially important during puppyhood, when a dog's personality, likes, and dislikes are being formed. But adult dogs need it too (though if all has gone well, you can begin to focus on it less intensely once your dog is older). Otherwise, they can grow less relaxed and friendly over time. Positive interactions with the local kids, other dogs, neighbors, as well as training classes, doggie day care, and trips to the park can be good ways to meet these needs.

Of course, socialization can hard if you're dealing with a dog that's already aggressive toward dogs or people. In that case, you'll need help from a professional behaviorist or trainer.

Feeling part of the family

Dogs are pack animals, social creatures who need to interact with people as well as with other dogs. Dogs who're ignored for big chunks of the day or who spend their lives in the yard won't be happy, and their personalities will never reach their full potential.

The more your dog feels welcome in everything you do, whether you're driving cross-country, running errands, or having a family outing, the more you'll both enjoy the relationship. Being a member of the family is the absolute core of the human-dog bond. (dogtime)

Guidelines for dog training

2009-06-19T11:03:00.001+07:00

No matter what you're trying to teach your dog, from housetraining to "heel," there are a few basic guidelines that will make the process easier:

1. Be consistent.

Use the same cue for the same command, every time. If you use "come" one week, "come here" the next, and "come here, boy" the following, you'll confuse your dog. If your dog is allowed to pull on the leash sometimes but is jerked by the collar when he pulls at other times, you'll confuse him. Make sure everyone who's around your dog follows the same rules and uses the same cues.

2. Use praise and rewards.

Almost all modern dog trainers believe that dogs learn better and faster when we praise and reward them for getting it right, rather than punishing them for getting it wrong.

The best motivator is usually a combination of a small food treat--especially if you train before mealtime--and enthusiastic praise. Don't worry that you'll wind up with a dog who'll only work for food. Once your dog gets the idea of what you're asking him to do, you'll begin rewarding him sporadically, and eventually you can phase out the treats entirely.

If your dog isn't that interested in food, try offering praise without the treat, or a favorite toy, or a physical reward such as a good behind-the-ears scratch or tummy rub.

3. Time the rewards right.

The praise and reward need to come immediately after your dog does what you want if he's going to make the connection--"Hey, whenever I pee outside, I get a treat. I'm going to do this more often!"

4. Keep it short and sweet.

Training works best if it's fun and you stop before either of you gets bored or frustrated. Keep the mood upbeat, not drill-sergeant serious, and make the sessions short. Five to ten minutes is plenty to start with, or you can do many mini-training sessions throughout the day, especially if you have a puppy--like kids, they have shorter attention spans.

5. Make it easy for your dog to get it right.

When you let a dog who hasn't pooped all day have free, unsupervised run of the house, you're asking for a mistake that can turn into a bad habit. When you start practicing the "come" command in a dog park, where there are a million distractions, you're asking for a mistake that can turn into a bad habit.

Train slowly, starting in a quiet, familiar place with no distractions, and gradually make it more challenging for your dog. Don't progress to the next step until your dog has mastered the current one.

6. Keep your cool.

Yelling, hitting, and jerking your dog around by a leash won't teach him how to sit on request, pee outside, or do anything else you want him to learn. It will teach him that you're scary and unpredictable. Fair, calm, consistent training is the best way to get your dog to obey and respect you.

7. Go to school.

In-person guidance from an expert trainer is the best way to get a well-trained dog. Obedience classes are relatively cheap, a great way to learn how to train, and they get your pooch used to being around lots of other dogs and people--good for all dogs, but especially important for raising safe, friendly puppies. To find local dog trainers and classes check out DogTime's Local Listings.

If going to classes or hiring a a dog trainer isn't in your budget, check out our Dunbar Training Center which is loaded with great puppy training videos. You can also find great training information in our Expert Center Q&A section. Learn what you need to know from dozens of dog trainers and behaviorists.

8. Keep practicing!

Don't expect that once your dog has learned something, he's learned it for life. Your dog can lose his new skills without regular practice. (dogtime)

Summer Safety for your Pet

2009-06-19T10:55:00.002+07:00

Summer is here and that means fun in the sun for us and our four-legged family members. While long days spent frolicking outdoors creates priceless memories, it can also pose hidden dangers to your pet. By following these simple guidelines, you can ensure your pet enjoys summer safely.

Keep your dog hydrated
Pets that play or spend time outdoors in the heat need to drink plenty of water. A dog or cat that becomes five percent dehydrated will develop early signs of heat stress while a pet that experiences ten percent dehydration will be severely ill. To avoid dehydration, always carry fresh water with you and offer it to your pet at least every thirty minutes. There are many styles of portable dog bowls that are convenient to carry. Under normal circumstances, most pet swill drink about an ounce of water per pound of body weight per day. In hot and humid conditions, your pet may need three to four times this amount.

Pets can get sunburned
Dogs and cats are susceptible to the same damage from ultraviolet rays that humans are. This is especially true in white or light-colored pets and areas of the body that are thinly haired, such as the nose, face, and ears and in breeds with little hair such as Shar Pei's and Chinese Crested hairless dogs. Dog sun suits, visors, and hats can protect at-risk dogs. They come in a variety of designs, colors and materials to suit an individual's preference. Look for a suit that is at least 30+ UPF with 50+ UPF ideal.

The eyes and nose of dogs and cats are highly susceptible to damage from the sun's rays because they are typically lightly pigmented and frequently exposed to direct sunlight. I recommend using a children's sunscreen that contains avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789), which is a UVA blocker, and octisalate, which blocks UVB rays. Avoid sunscreens that contain zinc oxide because accidental ingestion could lead to a serious condition called hemolytic anemia in some pets.

Chill out when it gets too hot
The amount of time a dog can exercise in the heat is dependent on several factors: the acclimatization of the dog (how long and frequently it has been exposed to hot temperatures), its current fitness levels (lean, fitter dogs can endure high temperatures longer than out-of-shape, overweight dogs) and hydration status.

In general, once it gets above 85 degrees, dog owners should use caution when exercising their dog outdoors. For most dogs, moderate activity for thirty minutes is safe. When temps exceed 95 degrees, it's probably best for both of you to skip the outdoor workout until it cools down. During the summer months, try to walk or jog in the early morning or evenings or seek shady trails.

If your dog begins to have rapid or labored breathing, begins to resist walking or acts depressed, your dog may be overheating. In these cases, stop, rest, and rehydrate. This doesn't mean you should cease exercising just because your dog is panting; you need to closely watch your pet to determine if the panting is excessive or abnormal. If in doubt, take a break and cool down.

Water safety
Many pet owners enjoy taking their pet to the beach for a dip or for a ride in their boat. These activities are great ways to bond with your furry friends and I encourage people to include their pet in outdoor fun. Whenever your pet is on a boat, I strongly advise you to use a pet floatation device. Purchase one with a large, convenient handle that allows you to safely retrieve or assist your pet should it fall overboard or tire from swimming. It can get hot wearing a life vest, so be sure to provide shade and plenty of water during your trip.

Dogs often ingest water when their swimming. If they drink seawater, they will often develop vomiting or diarrhea. Most cases will resolve quickly but if your pet continues to experience GI upset for more than 24 hours, seek medical attention. Another potential threat is drinking contaminated water. There are many water-borne parasites and infections that you and your dog can contract from ponds and lakes. Always verify that the water you intend to swim in is safe. Don't allow your dog to go into any body of water you aren't certain is safe. In addition to microscopic predators, our areas' ponds are also home to alligators, cottonmouths (also known as water moccasins) and venomous insects.

After you enjoy a day cooling off in your favorite watering hole, rinse your dog's coat with plenty of clean, fresh water and a hypoallergenic pet shampoo. Clean and dry the ears with an ear cleaning solution that contains an astringent or drying agent. Many cases of ear infections are caused by allowing moisture to remain in the ears after swimming or bathing.

Thunderstorms and fireworks
Summertime also means frequent afternoon thunderstorms and holiday fireworks. Many pets are frightened of loud noises and these events trigger severe anxiety and stress. If your pet becomes destructive or behaves abnormally in response to loud noises, there is help. In addition to great pharmacologic treatments to help relax your pet during these stressful times, there are non-prescription remedies that may help.

Gradual desensitization using storm recordings work remarkably well for most pets. Rescue Remedy, valerian, melatonin, dog-appeasing pheromone (DAP), and other natural products may also help some dogs and cats. Talk with your veterinarian about how to calm your best buddy with a storm problem. There's no reason anyone should have to cower in a closet or destroy the furniture to get relief.

Heartworms, fleas, and ticks
Finally, warm weather brings out the pests. Every dog and cat in our area should be on heartworm preventive year-round. Heartworm disease is fatal if untreated in dogs and there is no treatment for cats. In addition to heartworm preventive, most pets require a flea preventive, especially during warmer months. There are several choices, including newer, more eco-friendly options this year. Many newer heartworm preventives also contain a flea preventive. Talk with your veterinarian about the safest and most effective flea preventive for your pet.

Pets that live in wooded areas often are exposed to disease-carrying ticks. Many flea preventives will also protect against ticks. One mosquito, flea, or tick bite is too many for any pet. Don't risk your pet's health (and your money) by allowing your pet to be at risk. Today's preventives are highly efficacious and extremely safe.

Summer is a great time of year for people and pets. The activities you share with your pets this season will last a lifetime. Be smart, safe, and break a sweat!(dogtime)

Cat Facts & Myths

2009-06-19T10:41:00.002+07:00

Myth: Cats always land on their feet.
Fact: While cats instinctively fall feet first and may survive falls from high places, they also may receive broken bones in the process. Some kind of screening on balconies and windows can help protect pets from disastrous falls.

Myth: Cats should drink milk everyday.
Fact: Most cats like milk, but do not need it if properly nourished. Also, many will get diarrhea if they drink too much milk. If it is given at all, the amount should be small and infrequent.

Myth: Cats that are spayed or neutered automatically gain weight.
Fact: Like people, cats gain weight from eating too much, not exercising enough or both. In many cases, spaying or neutering is done at an age when the animal's metabolism already has slowed, and its need for food has decreased. If the cat continues to eat the same amount, it may gain weight. Cat owners can help their cats stay fit by providing exercise and not over-feeding.

Myth: Cats cannot get rabies.
Fact: Actually, most warm-blooded mammals, including cats, bats, skunks and ferrets, can carry rabies. Like dogs, cats should be vaccinated regularly according to local laws.

Myth: Indoor cats cannot get diseases.
Fact: Cats still are exposed to organisms that are carried through the air or brought in on a cat owner's shoes or clothing. Even the most housebound cat ventures outdoors at some time and can be exposed to diseases and worms through contact with other animals feces.

Myth: Tapeworms come from bad food.
Fact: Pets become infected with tape worms from swallowing fleas, which carry the parasite. Also, cats can get tapeworms from eating infected mice or other exposed animals.

Myth: Putting garlic on a cats food will get rid of worms.
Fact: Garlic may make the cat's food taste better but has no effect on worms. The most effective way to treat worms is by medication prescribed by a veterinarian.

Myth: Pregnant women should not own cats.
Fact: Some cats can be infected with a disease called toxoplasmosis, which occasionally can be spread to humans through cat litter boxes and cause serious problems in unborn babies. However, these problems can be controlled, if the expectant mother avoids contact with the litter box and assigns daily cleaning to a friend or other family member.

Myth: A cat's sense of balance is in its whiskers.
Fact: Cats use their whiskers as "feelers" but not to maintain their balance.

Myth: Cats heal themselves by licking their wounds.
Fact: Such licking actually can slow the healing process and further damage the wound.

(Love cats)

How to Human-Proof a Cat House

2009-06-19T10:39:00.001+07:00

First, we must define "Human-Proof" as the act of arranging a cat house so that the humans who mom and pop-ulate it know without a doubt who is boss in your CAT HOUSE. To accomplish this, put yourself in your human's purrspective: jump up on the highest surface you can find. The top of a door is good, or the railing of a balcony. Your humans' screams of terror will inspire you as you go about surveying your domain. (The effect will intensify if you wobble a bit, or pretend to slip.)

Scan your gaze around your cat house to see spots where your human-proofing work is needed. Making your human's house a cat house is important business, so take your time. You'll see dozens of likely places that could set the scene. We'll give you some useful tips, and with your imagination, you can give this endeavor your purrsonal touch. Remember, cats rule!

The Hairball Hurl
At least once a week, leave a large hairball on the floor in a conspicuous place (the middle of the new Abusson rug is a purrfect spot, or next to the bed is good!) Your human will entertain you for several minutes, by poking, prodding, and analyzing it for content, then extend your entertainment by discussing it for hours with other fascinated humans. (The human mind has an unfathomable bent for making lemonade from life's lemons.)

Extra points are given for making a lot of noise before hurling the hairball. A tried-and-true technique is to hunch over, cough, gag, and groan a lot, then when you have attracted the attention of a solicitous human, produce your award-winning hairball. Your rewards will be enhanced by her cries of "ewuuew!" as she surveys the prize.

The Human Cat House Dance
Leave slippery toys lying around where your human is likely to encounter them at unlikely times (like coming into the house with both arms full of grocery bags.) Her antics as she flails her arms, with elbows, knees and ankles akimbo will give you lots to talk about with other cats on the Kitty Net. Take care that your human doesn't hurt herself, though. The object is just to promote a little fear and panic, which is good for humans - it stimulates their adrenaline glands and gets their hearts pumping. (Think of it as cat house aerobics.) Hard plastic jingle balls are good for this exercise - every self-respecting cat should have plenty of those lying around the house..

Cat House Twist on Toys
When your human brings home a new flashy electronic toy, profess great interest in the box it came in. Garther around it, sniffing and marking it with your cheek glands. Then, when your human hauls out the toy to assemble it, jump in the box for a game of hide-and-seek with another cat. Steadfastly ignore the toy, making it obvious that you think the box is the real gift. If your human fails to get the message, the braver among you may try simulating marking the toy with your other glands. Remember, the key word is simulate: just back up to the toy, raise your tail and let it quiver a bit until you get her attention. Prime cat house human-proofing!

An alternative is to give the toy a rousing round of play. Convince your human that you think it's the niftiest thing to come around since catnip. Then, when she has bragged about it to all her friends, convincing them to buy one too, give it the cold shoulder. Look at it with disdain, and give it a wide berth as you pass it on your way to play in a paper bag. You and your friends on the Kitty Net can do a "group snub" as a means of insuring your domain over your respective cat houses, and it will move you closer to human-proofing your own house.

Cat Food Scramble
This is an excellent variation on the Cat House Twist on Toys. Just substitute the latest bag of superior cat food your human brings home to your house. Sniff and scratch at the bag, or even try to tear it open. Then use either variation of the above method. A superb way to show disdain for food is to scratch the floor all around the bowl as if you were attempting to bury it. Your human will be humbled immediately by this ploy, and your goal of making a home a cat house will soon be within reach.

Bring your Human Gifts
Bubba's supreme crowning moment that made this house his cat house was the night he left a catfish corpse lying on the floor next to Franny's side of the bed. To this day, he has pleasant catnip dreams of her screams when she stepped on the gift in her bare feet on her way to the human litter box. The racket she made resounded throughout the house. Get creative, cats: look around your cat house for similar gifts to share with your human. She'll love them, and you'll get extra human-proofing points for your own house. (about)

Feng Shui for Cats

2009-06-19T10:31:00.004+07:00

Jenny is my most recent rescue, and temporarily shares the master bedroom with me until we've worked out some disharmony problems with our alpha male cat, Jaspurr. Several years ago, I decided to implement a bit of oriental philosophy, and came up with Feng Shui for Cats for the benefit of our Bubba, then the master of our domain. The concept of Feng Shui, I learned, is to live in a balanced environment, to attain spiritual harmony with oneself and others around us, so it sounds made to order for Jenny and Jaspurr.

Ch'i: Life Force

Ch'i is life force and is good when encouraged to flow evenly throughout the house. SHA, which we decided must be Bad Ch'i, delivers adversity and misfortune, it is said. Upon contemplation, Jenny is convinced that SHA must be responsible for hairballs and Jaspurr. Bad SHA!

Maximizing Energy

Developing good Feng Shui seems to be a matter of maximizing energy, which Jenny endorses wholeheartedly. It is no wonder then, that the placement of one's bed is of vital importance for attaining the goal of maximized energy. There are several rules for bed placement that seem to have been designed specifically for cats:

* Never place your bed under a window, as your Ch'i might escape while you sleep, and Ch'i is best kept circulating through the house rather than rushing in and out the window.
* Don't place your bed between two doors. Bad SHA might rush in through one door, envelope you, and then rush out the other (to say nothing of d*gs and strange cats).
* Never allow your bed to be right next to a bathroom wall nor directly below a toilet. Bad yin energy from the toilet can cause loss of health and wealth and all kinds of other catastrophes. (We're not entirely sure what yin energy is, but think it might be related to SHA.) Nonetheless, bad is bad.
* Don't let your bed be in a direct line with the door. It will allow all your energy and good luck to drain out through the door, along with your favorite toys and any hidden treats you've stashed away.

Wind and Water

Simply put, cats love neither, but since Feng Shui is sometimes translated as Wind and Water, Jenny will accept it for the sake of her spiritual harmony. Actually, Jenny likes water well enough if it is flowing from her automatic fountain, but she'll take her wind from the inside looking out, thankyouverymuch.

Bad Feng Shui

There is a lot more to learn about Feng Shui. (One article said a very smart student, studying extensively for twenty years, might reach the first level of understanding.) We learned just enough to know that there is also a lot of bad Feng Shui, along with bad Ch'i, and shelves, mirrors and sharp corners all have a part in it. For that reason, we will try avoid all of those, although Jenny loves to climb on the shelves that contain books and multimedia.

Frankly, all this study made us very sleepy, so we're going to take a nap on our bed. By the way, the bed is between two windows, right next to the bathroom wall, and points directly to the fireplace, which has got to be bad Ch'i all around. We're going to cuddle, though, so that our positive energy will flow back and forth between us, SHA be damned.

It may come as no surprise to you that Jenny and I really don't know anything about Feng Shui, but we've enjoyed this little exercise and hope you did too, and that you won't report us to the Bad Feng Shui cops.

Good Ch'i to you and yours! (about)

How to Choose Cat Food

2009-06-19T10:28:00.002+07:00

Cat food is one of the most important expenses of feline guardianship, next to veterinary care. It is important also to note that proper diet can eliminate or delay veterinary expense for a number of serious medical conditions. Learn how to read cat food labels, why some foods are better than others, and what those mysterious ingredients are.

Cat Food Labels: The Basics
You'll learn a lot about cat food labels here:

* Cats' Basic Nutritional Needs
* Why Cheaper Brands of Cat Food are False Economy
* What to Look for on the Label
* What Ingredients to Avoid in Cat Food
* The Role of AAFCO in Cat Food Manufacturing

Understanding Cat Food Labels

Learn how to analyze cat food labels to better understand the meaning of the "Guaranteed Analysis" section, and exactly what the AAFCO can and cannot do in regulating cat food. Learn a simple formula for determining the ratio of the food ingredients on a "dry matter basis," the accepted standard for comparing cat food ingredients.

What's in the (Cat Food) Bag?

Learning to read cat food labels can be a daunting task, especially with those mysterious ingredients. If you weren't already aware, you should know that ingredients are listed in order, by weight. Read this article to learn more about the definitions of the ingredients in a popular "grocery store" cat food, why some of them are healthful for your cat and why others should be skipped. Once you've read this article, move on to "What's in the Bag Part 2," which profiles the ingredients in a good quality premium cat food.

If you are like most responsible cat guardians, you will soon find yourself turning up your nose at cheap "grocery store" cat food and choosing among the premium quality cat foods instead.

Cat Food Comparison by Brands A-Z

As cat owners become more informed consumers, we need a way to compare one brand of dry or canned cat food against another, to ensure our cats get the very best nutrition they need for growth, healthy skin, teeth, and muscle development. Find your cat's food in the list and compare.

Cat Food Glossary

Understanding cat food labels can become a whole lot easier if you know the definitions of some of those mysterious ingredients. For example, what is really in "chicken by-products?" Read on and learn more here. Unless noted, these definitions are taken from AAFCO Guidelines.(about)

How disability affects my life with Poppet

2009-06-19T10:11:00.002+07:00

Well my life began with Poppet on the 16th September 2007, I have always loved parrots and it was wonderful that I now had one of my own.

The day before I got Poppet I was behaving like a child at Christmas, there was furniture being moved to accommodate Poppet’s new “house” which I had to pick up should I come home with a baby, there were lists of possible names for ether male or female.

So the day had come to collect the new addition Mum and I had spoke to the gentleman to get final directions, the night before I prepared my old cockatiel cage to bring her home in. so we set off heading to Salisbury, Wiltshire in the UK, we arrived and were invited in to view the babies there were two left to choose from I am kind of glad there were no more it was hard enough to choose as it was!. Mum and I were looking at these two for sometime, Poppet was shy at first hiding behind the other one until the pens and paper arrived on the table and then she came into her own and became really playful where as the other one was more reserved and like to watch what was going on.

We were left alone with them to see if we/Mum were able to catch them with confidence to which that duty fell to my Mum at least while we were in someone else’s house being that I have cerebral palsy and I only have use of one hand and walk with a limp! My Mum passed the catch the parrot test with ease and I became the proud adoptive parent of a really cuddly twelve week old CAG.

We were home to drop little one (then with no name) home while I went to get her permanent home from the pet shop where my Mum works, we brought it home Poppet looking at us all the time as we struggled to put the cage together and fitted it out with new toys food and water and we let her settle in peacefully, so began my new life with Poppet.
The first day Poppet was quiet but alert to everything that was being said to her. When I first let her out she cuddled in to me tight, when I first walked with her on my shoulder I think she was a bit confused because my disability causes me to walk with a similar motion to a ship at sea! But she soon got used to it and learnt that when I said to her “hold on tight” she does hold on now I guess she must have realised that I am going to be on the move.

As with any youngster the first thing Poppet was taught was to step up which she picked up very quickly which I was pleased about because I had better control, like I say having one good had has lots of challenges a young CAG is just a new one. Poppet and I had built a pretty good bond and was very friendly toward my Mum as well as everyone else that comes to see us, she is a really lovely pet, member of my family and still friendly to me.

At the moment Poppet has really bonded with my Mum and opts to sit on her given the chance I.E if Mum and I are in the same room, sometimes I don’t think Poppet sees me as a leader figure and sees more of a leader in my Mum which is a little upsetting I guess, but she is still friendly towards me just not very tactile, she watches me when I clean her cage and chatters away to me, I can only think it is my disability that doesn’t portray confidence.

She does get cheeky like stepping up on my arm when asked but then stepping over the other side she thinks this is funny, I guess I do sometimes although I don’t show it!

As it stands at the moment my Mum is the one with more powers of persuasion then myself but I guess that is one of those things I still have her and wouldn’t change her for the world she is still young and coming on leaps and bounds everyday, she sounds like she is mimicking which is nice too hear her laugh like myself and natters away I am not sure what she is saying yet but I am sure I will soon. I am hoping as she gets older she will bond with me more as well but until that day I will keep bonding with her the best I can and try and get her chatting some more to.(parrot)

The Best Quaker Parrot Diet

2009-06-19T10:07:00.002+07:00

Because diet affects the length and quality of life of pet birds,
it's important to feed the best diet possible to our Quaker Parrots.
And while it's true that even the experts still argue over what is the best diet,
here is one Quaker owner's opinion on the subject.
A list of toxic foods is included at the bottom of the article.

"What you put in is what you'll get out", is an old expression that still rings true today, especially as it pertains to the diet of Quaker Parrots. Perhaps you have already owned a bird, or two, or three, or more in your life and already know all there is to know about diet as it relates to health in the companion parrot, and if so, Congratulations! You have outdone avian medicine, breeder study, and science all together.

What I am trying to say is that no one has proven a 100% guaranteed, healthy, risk-free way to feed a captive parrot as of yet. Our responsibility as birdie parents is simply to provide the most well balanced, planned, variety of healthy foods possible to our Quakers, and then hope for the best.

Feeding a Variety of Foods

General consensus among bird enthusiasts, avian medicine, and professional breeders is that a pellet based diet is superior to a seed based diet and any possible drawbacks to the pellet based diet are far surpassed by the potential benefit.

What do I mean by "pellet based"? Just like it sounds, the diet is centered on a constant offering of high quality companion parrot pellet food, with a generous offering of fresh unseasoned vegetables, fruits, dairy, carbohydrates, and protein. Sound familiar? It should!

Simply put, our Quakers should eat as we should. Not as we do, however. Quakers are somewhat prone to fatty liver disease and hypertension, and therefore it is extremely important to offer them only foods that are low in saturated fats and sodium (salt). There is some debate over the ratio in which our birds should eat, but it is somewhere between 60%/40% pellets-fresh food and 80%/20% pellets/fresh food. Your Quaker will probably set its own pace somewhere within that acceptable range.

To Feed Seeds or Not

Does this mean that Quaker Parrots never eat bird seed? NO! Anyone who denies their Quaker both the pleasure of cracking seed and the dietary benefit of variety, is, in my opinion, doing their bird a terrible injustice. Cracking seed is a natural bird behavior, an excellent behavioral enhancer, and, well, just the right bestowed by wearing feathers. It is essential to feed only a superior quality, well stored, low fat seed, however. This would preferably be a parakeet (Budgie) mixture that does not contain sunflower seeds.

Sunflower and pumpkin seeds in bird seed are very high in fat and should be reserved for the occasional "special treat" food only. Wild bird and human prepared seeds are loaded in salt and should never be offered your Quaker. Premium seed mixtures for parakeets should be available at the dealer where you purchase your pellets and should be offered as approximately a 10% dietary supplement, preferably mixed in with the pellets. My Quaker, Tango, loves to pick through his food dish, and I have never had a problem with him only wanting the seed. Remember though, Oats are a grain, or carbohydrate, and not a seed. Quakers love them, but they should be fed in moderation as well.

As with any bird, your Quaker will crack open the seed, eat the contents, and leave the hull behind. Quite often this gives the visual impression that the bird has not eaten any or all of the seed, although there may be nothing left behind but the "suitcase". Check this thoroughly when deciding whether or not your Quakers food needs replacing.

The Importance of Clean Water

All birds must be offered a constant supply of fresh, clean drinking water. It is simply a bird trait to soil the water dish, and you will just have to get used to changing it many times every day. If at all possible, it is probably healthiest to provide your parrot with bottled non-carbonated mineral water. If you must use tap water for your bird you should bring it to a rapid boil first and allow it to cool before placing it in the container. This will help destroy potentially toxic bacteria that grow in the water as it sits in the house pipes and also boils out many of the chemicals added at the water treatment plant. Although we humans are able to tolerate many of these substances, our body mass is substantially larger and our significantly smaller avian friends are not as adept.

Further, another option is to offer your Quaker a birdie bottle, which is a plastic, gravity fed water bottle with an incorporated stopper to prevent food from being inserted through the tip, blocking the gravity feed. Many Quakers adjust well to these bottles, and if you work all day, this a great option. Do not remove your Quakers water dish when not at home until you know for sure your bird has adjusted to the bottle, and be sure to change the water inside the bottle frequently as well, even if there is a lot left.

It is not alright to let your bird drink contaminated, soiled, foul water no matter how many pet stores you see that allow it. If you wouldn't drink it, don't allow your baby to. Also, it is not necessary, nor is it healthy, to add vitamins to your birds drinking water. Most vitamins oxidize in the water after a very short period of time and are actually contaminating it!

Eating is a Flock Activity

Eating is not only a means to achieve nutrition and energy, eating is a very social activity for birds as it is for us human kind. Most Quaker Parrots truly enjoy eating with their families, and I think this is preferable whenever possible. There is an excellent bird behavior specialist/author who claims that certain birds have suffered from anorexia for being denied the right to participate in meal time with their human flock-mates. Participating in mealtime is also desirable because most Quakers eat fairly small portions several times a day and breakfast and lunch with the family will provide your Quaker the opportunity to enjoy freshly prepared human food at least twice a day.

Things to Avoid

There are several things already mentioned that are bad for your birds, fatty foods, salty foods, moldy or otherwise unfit foods should all be avoided. There are certain things that present an even more immediate danger to your Quakers health and should NEVER be allowed. These include caffeine, alcohol, tobacco, and nicotine. These things are bad for you, and deadly for your bird. Although some people do allow their Quakers to taste their beer and other (mind altering) things, there is truly no need for this, and I do not understand why you would take the risk. You have the ability to make an educated decision about what you consume, your Quaker does not.

Harmful Foods for Parrots

The following foods are toxic to your Quaker: Avocadoes, chocolate, apple seeds, and the pits of most fruits, i.e. cherry, peach, etc. Do not allow your bird to consume these three things under any circumstances. Some Quakers have ingested chocolate without harm, but others have died within hours. Please avoid that possibility. quaker)

Quaker Parrot Diet

2009-06-19T10:02:00.001+07:00

Why do we take the time to feed the best possible diet to our pet Quakers? Because like humans, diet has a direct impact on how long our birds live and the quality of their lives. Parrot diet can be a somewhat controversial subject.

It seems that even the experts can't completely agree on what foods provide a nutritious and balanced diet for birds. Based on both personal experience and research, Kyra Brown discusses her own thoughts regarding Quaker Parrot diet in the following article. Here's an excerpt:

"Simply put, our Quakers should eat as we should. Not as we do, however. Quakers are somewhat prone to fatty liver disease and hypertension, and therefore it is extremely important to offer them only foods that are low in saturated fats and sodium (salt).
There is some debate over the ratio in which our birds should eat, but it is somewhere between 60%/40% pellets-fresh food and 80%/20% pellets/fresh food. Your Quaker will probably set its own pace somewhere within that acceptable range."

To learn more about the best foods to feed your Quaker, please click through to The Best Quaker Parrot Diet. A list of toxic foods is included at the end of the article.

Filed under Blog by Shelly Lane

How to Quarantine Parrots

2009-06-19T09:47:00.001+07:00

The recommended practice is to quarantine any new
parrots in your home
from your existing birds for a minimum of 30 days
to prevent the spread of disease.
This article shares some tips and comments related
to quarantining birds.

I answered Sheryl's message off the list and I don't think it's too likely that Gabby's at risk, but I'd like to mention to all of you that a separate room in a house that has central heat and air is NOT quarantine.

Some of the organsims that cause disease in parrots, most notably chlamydia, can be airborne. This means that true quarantine requires a separate building, or a room that has its own self-contained air supply and does not exchange air with the rest of the house. This is why Sherri is keeping Bo Bo at the office, and why many large breeders have separate quarantine buildings.

Now, before all of you have a fit, let me make a couple of other points:

A hand-fed baby from a closed, clean, tested aviary is generally not a risk.

A bird that has been a pet in a single-bird household and has not been exposed to other birds for a year or more is generally safe.

Now most of you are thinking, "Good Grief! I don't have a separate quarantine building! I'm just a pet owner.." Well, I don't either, but if I have a concern about a particular new bird, I have several options:

* Board it at my vet
* Ask a non-bird-owning friend to keep it for me for 30 days
* Ask a breeder friend that DOES have a quarantine facility to quarantine it for me.
* Keep the bird at my work, my SO's work, or a friend's work

Also, note that I am not terribly strict about the 30 days if I have the appropriate medical tests (fecal check, CBC, Polyoma, Chlamydia, PBFD) done and they all come back good. (parrot)

Clean & Healthy Home Solutions:

2009-06-19T09:19:00.003+07:00

The following are basic items in a "natural cleaning cabinet":

* Soap (not detergent), vinegar, baking soda, washing soda, salt, ammonia, borax, alcohol, cornstarch, lemon juice, Trisodium phosphate (TSP), steel wool, and mineral oil are great for keeping the house clean (click on each item to find what it is used for)

* Simple cosmetic preparations, such as coconut oil, wheat oil, grapeseed oil, even olive oil, eggs, clay, vinegar and herbs, keep your hair shiny and your and skin smooth.

* Safe pesticides / insecticides and weed control

Baking Soda:

* Absorbs odor and deodorizes
* Cleans without scratching and polishes aluminum, chrome, jewelry, plastic, porcelain, silver, stainless steel, and tin.
* It can be used as a deodorizer in the refrigerator, on carpets, on upholstery and on vinyl. It can help deodorize drains.
* Extinguishes grease fires.
* Softens fabrics and removes certain stains.
* Softens hard water and makes a relaxing bath time soak.
* It is an effective underarm deodorant and toothpaste.
* For pet bird owners - it's a great scrubbing and scouring agent for cages.

Borax*

* Borax is often recommended as a relatively "non-toxic" cleaning product or pesticide. However, even though it is effective, there are serious concerns about this product. Borax [boric acid] can cause serious health problems, including death. People who work with Borax are instructed to wear protective clothing, such as gloves, and in some instances surgical masks to protect workers from inhaling Borax. Borax is an acute eye and respiratory tract irritant, and is quite toxic when ingested. If using Borax for cleaning or pest control, it's important to remove all traces. ... This being said, below are the applications of Borax.
o It disinfects and inhibits the growth of mildew and mold
o It boosts the cleaning power of soap or detergent
o It removes stains and deodorizes
o It can be used with attractants such as sugar to kill insects, such as ants or cockroaches.
o Pet bird owners use it as a scouring agent for cages.
o Borax is toxic to pets (especially to cats who lick it off their coats - less so to dogs). It's best not to use it around them.

Cornstarch

* Cleans windows
* Polishes furniture
* Shampoos carpets and rugs
* Starches clothes.

Hydrogen Peroxide

* Removes stains
* Disinfectant

Isopropyl Alcohol

* Excellent disinfectant and cleaning agent but it must be used in a well-ventilated space with adequate protection for the hands and skin.

Isopropyl Alcohol

* Excellent disinfectant and cleaning agent but it must be used in a well-ventilated space with adequate protection for the hands and skin.

Lemon Juice

* Deodorant.
* Cleans mineral bild-up, tarnish and grease
* A natural disinfectant
* Can be used to clean glass
* Remove stains from aluminum, clothes, and porcelain.
* It is a mild lightener or bleach, if used with sunlight.

BirdsMineral Oil:

* An ingredient in several furniture polish and floor wax recipes.

Salt

* Non-scratching abrasive cleaner.
* Combine with lemon to clean copper pans.
* Also see "Epsom Salt"

Soap (NOT detergent):

* Look for vegetable-oil-based liquid soaps.
* Castille soap can be used as a shampoo or as a body soap.
* Olive-oil based soap is gentlest to the skin.
* An all-purpose liquid soap can be made by simple dissolving the old ends of bar soap (or grated slivers of bar soap) in warm water.
* Anti-bacterial soaps

Steel Wool:

* Removes rust and stubborn food residues. Used to scour cook / bake ware and barbeque grills.

TSP (trisodium phosphate):

* TSP is a mixture of soda ash and phosphoric acid. TSP is toxic if swallowed, but it can be used on many jobs, such as cleaning drains or removing old paint, that would normally require much more caustic and poisonous chemicals and it does not create any fumes.

White Vinegar:

* Add to your steam cleaner to clean and get rid of pet stains and smells.
* Dissolves mineral deposits and grease.
* Removes traces of soap, removes mildew or wax buildup.
* Polishes some metals and deodorizes.
* Cleans brick or stone
* Cleans out the metallic taste in coffeepots and to shine windows without streaking.
* Ingredient in some natural carpet cleaning recipes.
* Vinegar is normally used in a solution with water, but it can be used straight.

Washing Soda or SAL Soda:

* Cuts stubborn grease on grills, broiler pans, and ovens.
* It can be used with soda instead of laundry detergent
* Softens hard water. (web)